Tropheus are not a fish for beginners in the aquarium, and you can maintain them only if one is willing to have a very large aquarium set up. At a minimum you should provide lively and intraspecific aggressive fish a minimum volume of 300 liters and a minimum length of 150 cm. Optimal is of course always a larger aquarium as having a lot of swimming space for fish is of great importance and therefore proper care is ensured.
When establishing a Tropheus, there are different opinions. We recommend a decoration to the fish, the district education is easier and shelter creates opportunities. It should be taken that not the entire back wall is served, but that islets that arise in the height differ, thereby creating screens. It is important in any case, that the stones are placed before the introduction of the sand on the base plate. For safety,a Styrofoam plate should be put between the base plate and the stones. I personally have also prevented a plexiglass plate on it the way that the base plate is selectively charged by the weight of the stones and thus not broken.
The stones are now established, and the substrate can be introduced. Reference should be used to fine medium coarse river sand in the aquarium.Like all big fish they need a proper
aquarium filtration.The advantage of sand is that the droppings are left on the soil surface and thus can be extracted better.
Furthermore,
Tropheus takes parts of the sand with their food on what should be advantageous for the digestion. Tropheus eat mostly vegetarian and so that you don’t suffer from assaults on the aquarium plants, you should only use robust plants. For the planting of Tropheus aquariums you should therefore have sclerophyllous plants such Anbuien, Cryptocoryen Javafarn or other proven plants. Since Tropheusarten have a very high metabolism, it needs powerful filtering, in which the aquarium water is filtered at least twice an hour is completely necessary. The water temperature should be maintained with an automatic heater from 25 ° C and 27 ° C. The water values should be consistent with a pH of 7.5 - 8.5 corresponding approximately to the Lake Tanganyika. A weekly water changes of 25 - 50% I think is a must!
Whoever wants to keep Tropheus, has certainly given some thought in advance, which variants are to be maintained.
What type you choose, but some things should be considered. A group of 10 animals is not recommended. As a beginner you should choose a group of at least 20 animals. The animals should not be less than 3 cm. For an adult Tropheus, at least 10 liters of water are expected. Who's Tropheus beginners should opt for breeding fish, as these are much cheaper and more stable than the wild. Similar-looking versions may not be associated with one another because of the danger of crossing. Tanganjikaseecichliden others with equal claims are well suited for association with Tropheus.
If you want to socialize with other Tropheus cichlids care should be taken to ensure that these co-inhabitants have the same claims as the Tropheus. Since Tropheus are a vegetarian, a socialization with carnivorous cichlids not advisable. A very common mistake is often made in the Tropheushaltung, is the wrong diet. Tropheus food security in the nature of volunteers (with included micro-algae) that grows on rocks. In principle, therefore, they take the very little vegetarian Tropheus Animal food. This should be observed when the diet of Tropheus in the aquarium.It takes too much out of animal fat to a liver which does not often irreparable damage to the often lead up to the dead. Worms, beef heart, red mosquito larvae, etc. Echyträen. if any, are suitable only rarely.
Small amounts of thawed Cyclops, mosquito larvae or white Atemia can be fed once a week to get used cautiously 1-2. As the main food quality has proven Spirulinaflockenfutter which is offered especially for herbivores. Furthermore, should additional daily doses of green fodder in the form of gefrorsteten spinach as it is available in pet shops, no creamed spinach, lettuce or cucumbers. Since, as already mentioned, the Tropheus feed on the nursery, you should never have side windows, rear panels, or even scrub the stone decoration. Tropheus are also very sensitive to changes in diet and stress. You see the nutrition plays for the specialized nursery eater so an enormously important role and should, if you want to prolong the enjoyment of their animals, and they are not to be underestimated.
One of the most common problems not only for Tropheus is the so-called fatty liver. This occurs due to poor diet of the animals. The animals are usually fed with nutrient-rich food which leads to disorders and diseases of the digestive tract of the Tropheus.
It leads to a lot of animal food which causes said fatty liver and often brings irreparable damage to the fish, which often lead up to its death. By the damaged liver in conjunction with a weakened immune system and stress often is compounded by a long thin, glassy feces, swing and abrasions movements which in addition to bacteria in the gastrointestinal tract through exhibits. Against the fatty liver itself, there are no drugs,and so that a fatty liver does not occur, you need a good diet Tropheus in the A and O. Very frequently in this context and thus weakened immune system in addition to skin and gill parasites.
The second most common problem in Tropheus cichlids are intestinal parasites (flagellates), which can multiply rapidly in weak, stressed or improperly maintained animals. Especially the animals which have a long way behind and weakens the long transport and the resulting stress, the immune system.You ca use liquid treatment and then place activated carbon in the
aquarium water filter to clear the chemicals. Symptoms are often a glassy Dried-Kot. In addition, the fish show rocking movements that are incorporated to the body, the animals show strangling refuse mouth movements, and later feed intake. Since they are damaged by the intestinal parasites intestinal walls, it is often also a vulnerability to bacteria that make the animals create additional issues.
By the time animals should refuse the food, you need to take the fastest possible action. In wild-caught fish this occurs despite adequate food, with them often wasting and having asunken head in conjunction with fast breathing with increasing Kiemenabspreizen in what can often indicate a worm infection. I have not been able to observe an actual spawning process with this pair, but the warning signs are obvious.
The Benitochromis, as a pair bonding species, is very aggressive to others in the tank. The bonded pair swim in all areas of the tank on a regular basis. The other members of the group spend their lives down on one end in an area (from top to bottom) that is no larger than a few inches. I was advised to keep the entire group together until the pair had gone through several spawns. Having the "competition" in the tank helps to strengthen the pair bond.
For the most part there is no nipping - just aggressive chasing, so I have left the entire group intact. When the pair is getting ready to spawn, the female will begin to turn pink in the belly. When this happens, the remainder of the group is pretty much pinned into the corners by both of the pair. The group is NOT allowed to leave their positions, unless it is feeding time. I have observed that the pair show little interest in the group when I drop some flakes in.